I was never a strong believer in fusion cuisine. More often than not, they tend to cause some con-fusion. So you see, fusion cuisine and my bad puns or lame word play have something in common – they rarely work. But when it does, it is a beautiful thing. Independent of all the times I left a fusion restaurant dissatisfied, I have always admired the creativity, culinary knowledge, boldness, cheekiness, and on occasions the downright audacity of some fusion chefs. I respect their bravery to challenge the norm, especially in Malaysia where we tend to have relatively stubborn taste buds and are not the most adventurous of humans when it comes to food. Wanting to experience new tastes, I am always willing to give it one more shot. This brought me to Manja at Lorong Raja Chulan one afternoon who are known for their awesome cocktails, and modern fusion menu.
Bayam & Escargot
Spinach sautéed in turmeric cream, topped with hickory smoked chili escargot, layered with dry roasted garlic dust, fennel and cumin. This spinach blend was relatively thicker than the ones I am more accustomed to at some of my usual Indian restaurants that I frequent. This was so smooth and creamy, just the right consistency if you ask me.
The sambal on top had a nice earthy aroma, was savoury, mildly spicy with a hint of sweetness. If u mix that in, it immediately kicks up the flavour profile another notch. It gives it much more depth and really binds the whole dish together. The escargots were decent, but played a supporting role in this dish, not that I mind though. Served with warm garlic toasts, this appetiser most definitely hit the spot, loved it to the last drop. If I was fed this when I was a kid, I would most certainly be more welcoming of leafy greens in my diet.
Truffle Garlic Angus Slider
This plain looking slider was packed with flavour. The patty was well seasoned, sear on the exterior gave a nice char, really locking in the meat juices. Infused with truffle garlic aioli, layered with nori, aged cheddar and light onion compote gave the slider some sweetness and saltiness, cutting right through the greasiness. In between a toasted brioche bun, it all fell into place. If there was an adult burger version, I would gladly take that as my main.
Tawau Lobster Butter Prawn Slider
It was a shame our next slider did not live up to the standard set by its beefy counterpart. Made me ponder why did we even order two different sliders in the first place.
Wild prawn braised in jus and sautéed with lobster butter with caramelised pineapples. The prawns were overcooked and probably even slightly burnt on the edges and gave off some unpleasant bitterness. The slider was supposed to be accompanied with some béarnaise and chimichurri.
Surprisingly both the sauces were almost non-existent. Either the sauces lacked the depth of taste to give the slider a much needed lift, or maybe they simply applied too little in it. Something was off with this dish, it just didn’t work for me.
Smoked Fish & Herb Rice
Coconut tamarind dressing drizzled over smoked salmon, sashimi grade yellowfin tuna and cured unagi on Calrose local herb rice and avocado with roasted mushroom, a dry chili prawn infusion and wasabi caviar. The rice was done well, had a similar texture to glutinous rice, was fragrant, sticky, and slightly sweet. I am not the biggest fan of chewy grains as mains, but I am certain many would adore the chefs take on this rice.
The fishes and unagi were mediocre across the board. It tasted pretty much like sushi at any average sushi store or a supermarket in the city. The avocado provided a nice nutty bridge between the two, but with the sticky rice, made the mouthful too heavy and rich for my liking that you could hardly taste the seafood. Everything was room temperature, I am not sure if it was done intentionally because it felt a bit off. I would have preferred if at the very least the sashimi slices were chilled.
Laksa Leaf Portobello
Roasted local Portobello, featuring a savoury reduction of laksa leaf on crispy thrice cooked potatoes and black sesame hummus. A vegetarian dish, honestly, not a single ingredient on this plate got me excited. I wasn’t expecting much but was impressed by the depth of flavour and balance. There was no star ingredient that stood out but I believe that’s the whole point. The balance of contrasting flavours and play of textures was what the chef at Manja aimed for and nailed.
It was done well in the sense that everything complemented one another. No one was taking centre stage and no one was overpowering the other. Each unselfishly played their own mundane role to great effect. You could taste everything in harmony with these simple ingredients which turned out to be a pleasant epiphany for me. The succulent Portobello, the sweet, nutty hummus, the sharp, savoury goat’s cheese, salty slight bitter olives, and the crunch, acidity freshness of the tomatoes – Good!
Final Thoughts on Manja
To sum up, lunch was a pleasant one. Manja has a unique charm to the way they deliver their passion on a plate. I felt they exude this bold, very distinctive identity in their interior and more so in their menu. It was certainly original, and most definitely interesting. If you are ever feeling adventurous and needing a break in the heart of the city, Manja will be it.
Manja Old Malaya Website: www.manja.com.my/ Instagram: www.instagram.com/manjakualalumpur/ Address: 6, Lorong Raja Chulan, Kuala Lumpur, 50250 Kuala Lumpur.
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