Cilantro Restaurant & Wine Bar KL
Whichever publication on fine dining in Kuala Lumpur you get your hands onto, Cilantro Restaurant & Wine Bar is shoo in in any Top 10. They’ve been around for over a decade, and for any restaurant to not only sustain, but set the benchmark in this cut-throat industry is no easy feat. Needless to say, Cilantro Restaurant has been on my to-go list for quite some time now.
Situated in MiCasa Hotel along Jalan Tun Razak lies the posh, intimate Cilantro where Chef Takashi Kimura plies his trade. Having trained in Michelin starred restaurants in France, and as the former chef de cuisine at the Japanese embassy a short distance away, you know you are in good hands. Upon arrival, we were ushered into a spacious crescent shaped booth, already the famed truffle butter sat there waiting.
If you are going on any regular day, the set menus should be your best bet. There is the “Discover 3-course” and “Cilantro 4-course” going for RM438 and RM538 nett respectively and you get to personally choose each course from their à la carte menu. If you were to order straight out the à la carte, it’s RM198 minimum per appetizer and RM298 minimum for a main course. Just one of each and you would have already spent more than the Discover 3-course set.
For even better value, look out for their Dinner Specials on Wednesdays. Then, for just RM300, you get a substantial fare of three courses of appetizers, a main course and a dessert. Now, THAT is a steal!
We came on a Monday, so the 4 course it is.
Cilantro 4-Course Set Menu
As at any proper French restaurant, it is customary to have bread to start, and boy were these a good spread. Served with truffle butter, the bread was so good, the brioche in particular. Flaky, warm, crusty and so, so buttery (in a good, sinful way). Look at the airy, intricate layers of the brioche! It was delicious that we polished everything; so delicious that we requested for two more! For a slice of French pastries in Kuala Lumpur, it really doesn’t get any better than this.
Amuse Bouche
A couple of complimentary amuse bouche is always a nice welcoming touch. We were served potato with chicken consommé along with smoked eel with Japanese tomato. Both pretty decent for tingling your pallet.
Appetizer 1 – Cold Capellini with Bafun Uni and Botan Ebi
After the sensational Cold Seafood Capellini at DC Restaurant last year, I was never going to pass on another if I ever spot it on a menu. Cilantro’s capellini had a different approach. Keeping things whole and simple, they just focused on some Bafun Uni and a whole Botan Shrimp. Both of my favorites. Milky, smooth, sweet with a huge punch of umami. The capellini was tossed in a lighter broth, not that I mind. This was a very delicious, well executed dish. I still favor DC’s. Cilantro’s cold capellini was less complex, nevertheless, still very, very good.
Appetizer 2 – Wagyu Tartare with Egg Mollet
The runny yolk and aioli binding all elements into a creamy, decadent goodness, this beef tartare was spot on. Well balanced, with a slight acidity. You can really savor the freshness from the meat and chives. Serve with a side of toast and anchovy crisp, this was heavenly. The anchovy spread was a tad salty, but take nothing away from a solid tartare.
Appetizer 3 – King Crab and Avocado Potage
This was a result of the curiosity getting the best of me. I love avocados and king crab, but as a pairing, I wasn’t too convinced it will be the best match. We gave it a shot, hoping to be enlightened but were left a little confused instead. The avocado potage was rich, creamy and heartwarming. However, it carried a slight medicinal taste, presumably from a relatively bitter avocado that is not fully ripe. I didn’t fancy the potage. The king crab chunks were good, firm and sweet but as it was swimming in the bitter potage, it didn’t really make a difference. Overall, it was underwhelming. I am pretty sure it would have been much better if they put more attention into the ripeness of the avocado.
Appetizer 4 – Seared Scallops with Cauliflower Meunière
I was pleasantly surprised by the generous portion of the Hokkaido scallops. Plump, succulent and naturally sweet, the doneness was almost perfect through the center, just a little shy on the sear. The cauliflower carried a sweet charred taste, slightly bitter while the parmesan foam tasted like air. Loved the scallops, but the accompanying elements fell a bit flat to be honest.
Post starters, we were served a super refreshing sorrel granite as a palate cleanser. I loved this. A much needed refreshing break in between with a jolting sharpness and fragrant herbs to reset your taste buds.
Mains – Maine Lobster with Coral Tagliolini Pasta
A substantial portion of lobster tail and claw. It was well cooked. The lobster coral or egg sac made a creamy, sweet sauced with an oceanic taste, very pronounced. I swore it tasted like “ssam-jang” which is a mix of doenjang (fermented soybean paste) and gochujang (fermented chili paste). Imagine ssamjang on noodles with the scent of the ocean and a touch of rum, and you will have a good idea how this tasted like. It was good but not eye-opening. I felt the sauce was a little overwhelming. A bit too sweet and heavy, it would not have been my first choice to go atop my pasta nor my lobster, unless they tone it down a little.
Mains – French Rabbit Rognonnade with Truffles
I’ve had “not the best of experiences” when it comes to rabbit meat, but I do recall one years back in Paris that was ridiculously good. Rabbit meat is pretty common in French cuisine and I came to learn you should only trust them with one. From memory, it tastes somewhat like chicken; but meatier, denser, and a cleaner aftertaste.
This French Rabbit Rognonnade was just okay. Imagine eating a chicken breast that is a bit dry but more tender and clean. The winter truffles added that “luxe” touch but apart from being easy on the eyes, taste wise, it did not add anything to the dish. It really tasted just like paper. Fortunately, the well seasoned, fragrant truffle sauce injected some life into this dish. I wish they’d push the boundaries more with this one.
Desserts – Chestnut Mont Blanc & Tiramisu Feuillantine
Chestnut Mont Blanc was pretty good. A douse of chocolate over the purée with caramel ice cream and meringue made for a rich and comforting mouthful. The winner was definitely the Tiramisu Feuillantine though. It is pretty much a deconstructed Tiramisu with crispy crêpes in place of the ladyfingers and the bitter chewiness of the coffee jelly . Taste wise, there is still that unmistakable familiarity of a tiramisu, but each element was distinct and stood out on its own making a harmonious contrast of textures.
Post desserts, you are presented with an adorable pair of canelé and a choice of coffee or tea to cap it all off. As I slowly sip away and recap the whole dining experience at Cilantro restaurant, I can’t help feeling it was a case of hit and miss.
Finals Thoughts
Apart from the exquisite capellini, wagyu tartare, and Tiramisu, the other courses fell a bit short. It was still a good dining experience overall, but I was measuring it against the prestige and weight of reputation Cilantro Restaurant has built as an elite over many years. The pricing is on the high side and I can’t forget that unripe avocado. Probably if we were to stick to the tried and true signature dishes instead of some seasonal ones, the outcome would have been better. Apart from the food, I must say everything else was great. Lovely ambiance and the service was fantastic.
Cilantro Restaurant & Wine Bar Website: https://www.cilantrokl.com/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/cilantrorestaurantandwinebar Address: 368B, Jalan Tun Razak, Taman U Thant, 55000 Kuala Lumpur
