Right in the heart of bustling Kuala Lumpur lies Nadodi, a story of nomads from the regions of Sri Lanka, Tamil Nadu and Kerela is being told in the form of an exquisite gastronomic journey. In Malaysia, it is not so often you come across South Indian FINE dining, and even less so one that cuts the mustard.
Nadodi, is one of the very few that do, if not the only one.
We were in for a thoughtfully crafted 10-course tasting journey centered around regional staples, spices, advanced technique, and strong flavors that just builds and builds as the dinner progresses. People that came before were all full of praises, I just had to experience it for myself.
Nadodi Trio
Starting off the journey with a tribute to Malaysia, a trio of one-biters adapted from local favorites. Onde-onde, rojak, and nasi lemak. The nasi lemak was simply adorable in the form of a minuscule burger with rice water meringue as the buns sandwiching a lovely fig sambal. That was good, the other two however, fell a bit flat.
Nadodi Street Staple
A second trio of one-biters. The tuna on shiso leaf was a little bit of a hit and miss for me. A cross of Japanese and Indian flavors that didn’t sit well. The mini dosai however was awesome. A crisp dosai with potato and chutney filling. Condensing all that richness into a bite size roll, it was an explosion of flavors yet so light. The spiced lamb bonda was a clear stand out here.
Minced lamb mixed with faux millet, mint chutney was well spiced and delicate. Packed with flavors in a thin, crisp fritter shell. It was my first time ever tasting bonda too – loved it!
Nadodi’s Take on Bread & Curry
This take on a classic eggs benedict was very intriguing. At the base sat a curry leaf muffin with confit free range roast chicken shreds. Instead of a runny yolk, they top it off with a Manglorean curry sphere.
Gently prod the sphere with your spoon and curry cascades out à la poached egg. The taste was simple but deeply satisfying. The curry was superb, bold, fragrant and rich (I can’t really taste the dusted foie gras). The chicken was slightly chewy and just a tad dry but still very good! Muffin was nice and soft, absorbing all that delectable curry.
I must say though; I would have preferred if there was a nice crisp roti in place of the muffin. That to me would go even better and provide a nice contrasting texture to the mouthfeel. Just my personal preference, Roti Canai is and always will be my Achilles heel.
Pink Ginger & Yoghurt
Sorbet? Now? I was a bit taken aback with what appears to be a dessert (it was not) so soon into the journey. Pink ginger flower and yoghurt sorbet, compressed strawberries and coulis, with beet coral and meringue.
Actually this was quite good. I loved the nice crunch of the sponge at the bottom with the mellow, fruity sorbet and coulis. A nice contrast, slightly tart, entire dish wasn’t heavy at all. It serves as a refreshing palette cleanser for the upcoming heavier dishes.
I am so Prawny
Best tasting prawn I’ve ever had! It ticked all the right boxes and stimulated all senses. As soon as the dome cover was lifted, we got a whiff of the most intoxicating aroma. The smell was simply divine. Every element on this plate was exquisite. The Sabah King Prawns that were sous vided were done just right and so, so succulent. A light snap on the outside with a slight creamy center.
The green emulsion was clean, creamy and carried a bold prawny scent that went beautifully with the meat. The Kale chutney and Sakura Ebi Mayo brought balance and further elevated my taste buds to a state of euphoria. This was for me, perfection on a plate. Absolutely stunning.
Curry Leaf Madai
Another very well done dish. Doneness was spot on for the firm, flaky sea bream that was lightly seared with curry leaves and topped with mango, fennel salad and caviar. The lemon chili comté sauce was lightly cheesy which made the combination a bit lacking at first, but that 3 dollops of strong fermented black garlic completed the balance. The garlic provided a very robust sharpness and married the cheese and fish in harmony. Also on the right side of the plate sat a tiny cucamelon. It looks like a watermelon the size of a grape yet tastes somewhat like cucumber. Even though it didn’t contribute much to the fish (in terms of taste), I still found it interesting and just adorable.
Humble Broth by Nadodi Head Chef
Next up was a South Indian staple that was presented and poured table side by Nadodi’s chef de cuisine himself. Rasam made from Momotaro Tomatoes with a wild garlic and tomato foam accompanied by a bowl of super light and airy crackers to snack on. Honestly, I did not expect to be served such a “humble broth” at a fine dining establishment but this humble rasam was surprisingly not out of place at all.
The tomato broth was very clean and clear yet holds a lot of depth. You get a strong whiff of spices, especially the cumin and coriander which I liked. It was a bit spicy, fragrant, sour, smooth and warms the whole body from the insides of your belly. This would be wonderful on a cold rainy day.
We locals never really gave rasams any significant attention at the usual mamaks or banana leaf rice restaurant. However, this modest cup of broth is in a way educating us to appreciate its heartwarming charm as a standalone course that is often overlooked. Simplicity is sometimes the key, and I can see why this is one of Nadodi’s signature courses. Easily the best rasam I ever had by a mile.
Silence of Our Lamb
A crusted Iberico lamb sous vided and seared. Done to a beautiful medium rare, the herby crust was a bit overpowering for me. Sri Lankan mutton curry was very tasty but not exactly a match made in heaven with the lamb. The leek was slightly undercooked in the center which gave my palate a jolt as it hit me with a sharp raw sensation, the kind you get when eating raw garlic.
Nadodi Globe
What better way to end the mains with some classic Biryani. The ultimate local comfort food, which is also one of the signatures at Nadodi. Presentation was one of a kind, served in a 3-tiered globe. The very top tier was a lovely tempered raita made of yogurt, mustard seed and curry leaf oil. This was some next level raita, definitely best I ever had. I can’t really put my finger on it, it just works!
The middle tier was a country free range chicken with short grain biryani. Some sweetness from the dried fruits and onions, some crunch from the cashews, tender meat and a mildly aromatic rice brought balance to the dish. Very well done.
The bottom tier was a chili salna that was just okay for me. It was fragrant but would have preferred it to have more heat and spice. It still came together well with the biryani, but could have been more impactful. I find myself leaning more towards the raita as a pairing for each mouthful.
Alphonso
A wonderful sweet and tart combo of mango ice cream on bed of chocolate soil crumble, coulis, and a delicate cheesecake rounded up the journey.
Our waiter also brought out pretty chocolate cubes and some butterfly leather candies. I guess this was more for photo taking, but appreciated the gesture of these petit four nonetheless.
Final thoughts
Dynamic, yet preserving its roots. Nadodi transports food that we thought we knew to a point of rediscovery. Traditional tastes injected with intricate modernity, it was a very memorable experience. I like how they build up the flavors gradually with well-timed lightweight courses in between to reset. Excellent food and service was second to none.
As much as I love fancy ingredients, like caviar, truffles, wagyu, etc… I am always more inquisitive towards fine dining experiences that do not over rely on them. I respect and appreciate (more) cuisines that are elevated to new sensory heights if they came from everyday humble ingredients with the use of new techniques rather than expensive ingredients, and Nadodi is one of them.
It is these kind of enlightenment and separation from familiarity that blow people’s minds. That to me is a hallmark of a great chef, and that was what I got from some of Nadodi’s dishes.
NADODI KL Website: https://www.nadodikl.com/the-journeys/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nadodikl/ Address: Lot 183, 1st Floor, Jalan Mayang, Off Jalan Yap Kwan Seng, 50450 Kuala Lumpur.
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